A gathered skirt is the simplest type of skirt that you can draft and sew by yourself. A typical example of a gathered skirt is a dirndl, a traditional peasant women’s dress worn in alpine regions, part of which is a long gathered skirt with a gathered apron.
In this tutorial you will learn:
- What is a gathered skirt?
- How to draft a gathered skirt pattern?
- Examples of long and short gathered skirts?
- How to decorate the hem of gathered skirts?
- How to sew the waist of gathered skirts?
What is a gathered skirt?
A gathered skirt is a skirt cut out from a rectangular piece of fabric that is gathered at the waist. The width of the fabric has to be wide enough to accommodate the hips and provide ease and room when sitting down. The length of the rectangle depends on the desired skirt length.
How to draft a gathered skirt pattern?
Drafting the skirt pattern is easy. Measure the circumference of your hips and waist, also decide the length and the look of the skirt. The more gathered skirt you wish, the less you have to worry about its ease at the hips. In the images below, you can see both long and short gathered skirts of different widths.
The hip circumference measurement is really important for very narrow gathered skirts. Also keep in mind, that with minimal measurements there will have to be an opening (vent, kick pleat) at the back of the skirt. Otherwise the skirt will prevent you from walking comfortably.
If you decide to sew a wider gathered skirt, the ease will be included in the skirt width.
There is no need to draw the gathered skirt pattern first. A simple scheme and measurements on a piece of paper will do. Write down the desired width and length of your skirt and add seam allowances at the sides, waist and hem.
Examples of long and short gathered skirts
The minimal ease for the hips is 5 cm (2 inch).
skirt width = hip circumference + ease
skirt width = 1.5 ⨯ hip circumference
skirt width = 2 ⨯ hip circumference
skirt width = 2.5 ⨯ hip circumference
skirt width = 3 ⨯ hip circumference
skirt width = hip circumference + ease
skirt width = 1.5 ⨯ hip circumference
skirt width = 2 ⨯ hip circumference
skirt width = 2.5 ⨯ hip circumference
skirt width = 3 ⨯ hip circumference
How to cut fabric for the gathered skirt?
Depending on the fabric you have picked for your skirt as well as the skirt width, you can cut the fabric in two ways:
1) Skirt length along the lengthwise grain:
If your skirt has stripes or other pattern running along the lengthwise grain (as in the samples below), you will cut the skirt along this grain (as you do for most patterns). You also cut it this way when the width of the fabric cannot not accommodate the whole width of the skirt and you have to divide the fabric into several panels (pieces) and sew them together to get the final width. The final number of seams will depend on the number of panels (1 panel – 1 seam, 2 panels – 2 seams, 3 panels – 3 seams, etc.).
You can also sew the skirt from several pieces of different fabrics if you like it that way. Or as many panels as you wish. There are no boundaries to your design intentions :).
| Example in cm: | Example in inches: |
| Desired skirt width = 200 cm | Desired skirt width = 78 inch |
| Fabric width = 120 cm (WITHOUT SELVAGE LINE) | Fabric width = 48 inch (WITHOUT SELVAGE LINE) |
| Seam allowance = 1,5 cm | Seam allowance = 5/8 inch |
As the fabric width cannot not accommodate the skirt width and seam allowances on both sides, it has to be divided into more parts (two in this case). Do not forget that also two extra seam allowances have to be added.
2) Skirt length along the crosswise grain:
With fabric that does not have a prominent lengthwise pattern (single colour fabric, flower patterns, or abstract pattern with no significant lengthwise direction) can be cut from a single piece and the skirt will have only one seam. The usual fabric width is 120 cm (48 inch) or 140 cm (54 inch). Even a long skirt (from waist to ankles) could be cut with skirt width along the lengthwise grain.
How to decorate the hem of gathered skirts?
There are many possibilities how to decorate the hem. Add gathers, flounces, simple lettuce hem or permanent knife pleats, classic knife pleats, inverted pleats or box pleats. For the hems you can use different colors, different fabrics or both. There are no design limitations.
How to sew the waist of gathered skirts?
You can sew a wide elastic waist band right to the waist. This applies to slightly gathered skirts: Just stretch the elastic and sew it to the waist using a 3 step zigzag stitch. If you gather more than 2 x waist circumference, gather the fabric at waist first, so that the stretched elastic can accommodate it.
For slightly gathered skirts (up to 2 x waist circumference) you can also decide to sew an elastic waist band casing and hide the elastic in it.
Conclusion: What Is A Gathered Skirt And How To Draft It?
So simple to make, yet, extremely chic. You just alter fabrics, width or length and your wardrobe can be an impressive display of great gathered skirts designs.
