To any sewist or fashion design student who wants a perfectly tailored bodice pattern. You too can use our math-free approach. Learn how to draft a bodice block that fits with confidence, and without frustration. Use with our free interactive bodice block tutorial and draft your basic block from scratch easily.
How the interactive tutorial works in 3 easy steps
1. Fill in your measurements
Easily input your body measurements, as shown in the illustrations and get a custom no-math pattern drafting tutorial.
2. Get a personalised tutorial
Click “Design tutorial” to receive a personalised pattern drafting guide with computed values for each step.
3. Download instantly without waiting
Download your customised PDF tutorial instantly onto your phone or computer.
What’s included after you complete the interactive tutorial
Online tutorial
FREE
✓ Step-by-step illustrations
✓ Custom-fit drafting dimensions
✓ Formulas for calculated values
PDF tutorial
$2.99
✓ Step-by-step drafting illustrations
✓ Custom-fit drafting dimensions
✓ Formulas for calculated values
✓ Your measurements overview
✓ Approximate fabric consumption
What is a basic bodice block?
The basic bodice block (or basic bodice sloper), along with the basic skirt block, sleeve and dress block, is one of the fundamental patterns in fashion design. Once you’ve drafted your own custom-fit bodice sloper, you’ll have a perfect-fitting base for any design you dream up—tops, dresses, anything. By tweaking it with simple moves—like shifting darts, adding gathers, yokes or style lines—you can turn this one block into endless fashion designs.
This bodice is designed to be used with set-in a sleeve. The instructions for drafting the FRONT and BACK pattern piece are described separately. The reason for this is simple: I find it easier to understand the pattern construction steps if the two parts are described individually :).
This page contains the following:
- Tools and tips before taking body measurements
- Taking body measurements
- Basic bodice block pattern – interactive tutorial
- Tools you need to draw the pattern
- How to draft a basic bodice pattern
- Basic bodice block drafting FAQs
Tools and tips before taking body measurements
If you are a beginner in creating your own patterns from scratch, I recommend marking some parts of your body before you measure yourself (or someone else). These markings will help you take the measurements more exactly. If you measure yourself, you might ask a friend to help you take measurements at your back. You will need the following:
An elastic band to mark your natural waist (the most narrow part of your waist). Marking the waist is very helpful while taking various length measurements (see the image above).
Small stickers or a marker to mark your shoulder. The beginning of the shoulder next to the base of the neck is a very important point from which multiple measurements are taken. If you use a tailor’s dummy as I do, you may also use pins (see the image above).
Taking body measurements
Take body measurements according to the illustrations below. While doing so, make sure your tape measure is neither too tight nor too loose.
- Stand naturally: Maintain a natural posture without sucking in or pushing out any body parts.
- Get help if needed: Some measurements at the back, like neck to waist, shoulder to waist or armscye centre width, might be easier to take with assistance.
- Use an elastic band around your natural waist: it will help you with taking various length measurements.
- Double-check: Measure twice to ensure accuracy.
- mEnter the measured values into the tutorial designer below: this way you will get a custom step-by-step tutorial on drafting the basic bodice pattern.
How to draft a bodice block – interactive tutorial
Some values in the form below are highlighted in yellow. These have been automatically calculated from your measurements such as height, bust, or waist using standard body proportions and pattern-making guidelines. You can adjust any of them manually if your own measurements differ.
Need more time to gather your measurements? Download this bodice measurements cheat sheet: a one-page, print-ready PDF with clear illustrations. Fill it out at your own pace, then return to enter your measurements into the interactive tutorial below.
Body height
Bust circumference
Natural waist circumference
Shoulder to waist length at the front
Neck to waist length at the front
Bust to waist length at the front
Neck circumference
Bust divergence
Armscye centre width at front
Shoulder length
Shoulder slope
Armscye centre width at the back
Shoulder to waist length at the back
Neck to waist length at the back
Seam allowance
We do not store, nor share any data you put into the form above.
Get the best fit based on your body measurements
The shaping of a bodice depends on the difference between the bust and waist circumference, including ease. When the bust and waist measurements are equal, no shaping between the bust and waist is required. The bodice can be drafted without darts and with completely vertical side seams. As the bust–waist difference increases, more shaping is needed to fit the contours of the body. A small difference can be managed with a slight side seam intake, while a larger difference typically requires both side seam intakes and darts (see the table and images below).
| Bust-waist difference (including ease) | More than 3 1/8” (8 cm) | Less than or equal to 3 1/8” (8 cm) | No difference |
|---|---|---|---|
| Side seam intake | Side seam intake | Side seam intake | No side seam intake |
| Darts at the waist | 1 FRONT + 1 BACK dart | No darts | No darts |
 |  |  |
How to draft the basic bodice block step-by-step
First, prepare these tools:
- pencil
- sharpie
- large paper or tissue paper
- long ruler
- French curve ruler (useful, but optional)
In the instructions below, some of the lines are grey and some are black. I recommend drawing the grey lines with a pencil. These lines are mainly guidelines that will help you position individual points and parts of the pattern. The black lines are the ones of the pattern itself. Use a sharpie to draw them.
If necessary, iron the tissue paper before drawing the pattern. Never use creased or crumpled paper for drawing patterns.
How to draft the basic bodice block – BACK pattern piece
On a large sheet of paper, draw two perpendicular lines. The vertical one will be the centre BACK and the horizontal one will be the waistline.
Draw according to the following measurement:
a = shoulder to waist length at BACK
Draw according to the following measurement:
b = shoulder slope
Draw according to the following measurement:
c = neck to waist length at BACK
Draw according to the following measurement:
d = bust to waist length
Draw according to the following formula:
e = (neck to waist length at BACK – bust to waist) / 3
————
neck to waist length at BACK =
bust to waist =
Draw according to the following formula:
f = (bust circumference + ease)/ 4
———— bust circumference = bust ease =
Draw according to the following formula:
g = bust divergence / 2
————
bust divergence =
The vertical line drawn downwards from the dart point is the centre fold line of the future dart at the waist. It will cross the centre of the dart base you will draw in one of the following steps.
Draw according to the following formula:
h = (waist circumference + ease) / 4 + dart width
= dart width = ((bust circumference + ease) – (waist circumference + ease)) / 8
The waist circumference with added ease has to be divided by 4 (again, because of drafting 1/4 of the whole bodice pattern). However, the dart width has to be added to this calculation, so that you can create a dart at the waist.
Draw according to the following formula:
j = (bust divergence – dart width) / 2
——
bust divergence =
i = dart width
Draw the dart base under the dart point. Make sure the vertical line crosses its centre. The measurement between the centre back and the dart base marking on the left should match the formula (bust divergence – dart width) / 2
Draw according to the following formula:
k = armscye centre width at BACK / 2
——
armscye centre width BACK =
Draw according to the following formula:
l = neck circumference / 6 + 2 cm (6/8”)
——
neck circumference =
The first part of the formula (neck circumference / 6) computes the approximate radius of the neck. This means the centre of the pattern to the edge of the neck. However, the shoulder beginning is located a little further from the neck, therefore extra 2 cm (6/8”) need to be added.
Start at the shoulder beginning. First, draw a curved line and then draw along the horizontal neck line.
Draw according to the following measurement:
m = shoulder length
Draw the armscye: start at the shoulder beginning, pass through the “armscye” marking and finish at the “bust width marking”.
The pattern is almost ready. Now, cut the BACK pattern piece from the fabric. Make sure there are no draglines along the back of the neckline or at the armscye. Moreover, that the centre BACK and the side seam hang nice and straight.
Fold a narrow dart at the armscye that points towards the centre BACK of the pattern. Pin this dart.
Outline the dart legs with a pencil or marker.
Transfer the dart to the BACK pattern piece. At the BACK the dart is quite narrow and the dart legs the same length.
Using a tape measure or a flexible ruler, measure the length of the bodice armscye. Do NOT include the dart in the measurement.
Calculate 1/3 of the measured armscye length and mark this distance on the armscye with two small strokes. This will be the notch a the BACK for sewing the set-in sleeve.
Your basic bodice block BACK pattern piece is ready.
How to draft the basic bodice block – FRONT pattern piece
The steps and formulas for the FRONT part of the bodice will be similar to the ones you have followed to draw the BACK pattern piece.
On a large sheet of paper, draw two perpendicular lines. The vertical one will be the centre FRONT and the horizontal one the waistline.
Draw according to the following measurement:
a = shoulder to waist length at FRONT
Draw according to the following measurement:
b = shoulder slope
Draw according to the following measurement:
c = neck to waist length at FRONT
Draw according to the following measurement:
d = bust to waist length
Draw according to the following formula:
e = (neck to waist length at BACK – bust to waist) / 3
————
neck to waist length at BACK =
bust to waist =
Draw according to the following formula:
f = (bust circumference + ease)/ 4
————
bust circumference =
bust ease =
Draw according to the following formula:
g = bust divergence / 2
————
bust divergence =
Draw according to the following formula:
h = (waist circumference + ease) / 4 + dart width
= dart width = ((bust circumference + ease) – (waist circumference + ease)) / 8
The waist width of the FRONT pattern piece is the same as the waist width of the BACK pattern piece.
Draw according to the following formula:
j = (bust divergence – dart width) / 2
——
bust divergence =
i = dart width
Draw the dart base under the dart point. Make sure the vertical line crosses its centre. The measurement between the centre back and the dart base marking on the left should match the formula (bust divergence – dart width) / 2.
Draw according to the following measurement:
k = dart point = 4 cm (1 1/2”)
Draw according to the following formula:
l = armscye centre width at FRONT / 2
——
armscye centre width FRONT =
Draw according to the following formula:
m = neck circumference / 6 + 2 cm (6/8”)
——
neck circumference =
Start at the shoulder baginning. First, draw along the vertical line and then move towards the neckline marking.
Draw according to the following measurement:
n = shoulder length
Draw the armscye: start at the shoulder begining, pass through the “armscye” marking and finish at the “bust width marking”.
The pattern is almost ready. Now, cut the FRONT pattern piece from the fabric. Make sure there are no draglines on the bust. Further, the dart points towards the bust apex (but ends below the apex). And, that the centre FRONT and the side seam hang straight.
Fold and in a dart at the arsmcye. The legs of the dart should direct towards the bust apex. Pin this dart.
Mark the dart legs with a pencil or a marker so that you can visibly see them after you unfold the dart.
Transfer the dart from the bodice to your pattern.
Now, you need to true the dart legs. That means making both dart legs equally long. Prolong the shorter (bottom) leg of the dart. Make sure it is as long as the upper one and redraw the lower part of the armscye. The black dotted line on the left shows the original shape of the armscye.
Using a tape measure or flexible ruler, measure the length of the armscye. Do NOT include the dart in the measurement.
Calculate 1/3 of the measured armscye length and mark this distance on the armscye with two small strokes. This will be the notch a the BACK for sewing the set-in sleeve.
Your basic bodice block pattern is ready.
Working with the basic sloper
If you are just beginning with making your own sewing patterns, you might find the following publication by Adele P. Margolis useful. It will teach you how to alternate basic blocks to make your own designs (click here to read my review). This way you can turn your very simple looking basic bodice into an interesting fashion piece.
Conclusion: How to draft a bodice block
Drafting a basic bodice sloper might look a little complicated and overwhelming at first sight. Especially if you have to take so many different body measurements. However, if you take them correctly, drafting the pattern slowly, in a step-by-step manner, will lead you to the desired result: a nice fitted bodice.
Now, that your bodice pattern is finished, you can move to the next step: drafting a sleeve for the bodice. You will find detailed instructions in this tutorial.
Basic bodice block drafting FAQs
- Measure your bust circumference at the fullest part.
- Measure bust divergence (distance between bust apexes).
- Measure from a bust apex to the elastic band placed at your natural waist.
- Measure your neck circumference at the base of your neck.
- Measure the neck to waist length at the front. Start at the top of the breastbone, across the fullest part of the bust, to the natural waist.
- Measure from the beginning of your shoulder down to the elastic band at your natural waist.
- Measure the shoulder length from the shoulder beginning to the end of the shoulder.
- Measure the shoulder slope: the vertical difference between your shoulder beginning and shoulder end.
- Measure the armscye centre width at the front, above the armpits.
- Measure the neck to waist length at the back. Start at the most prominent vertebra of your neck and measure to the elastic band at your natural waist.
- Measure from the beginning of your shoulder down to the elastic band at your natural waist at the back.
- Measure the armscye centre width at the back, above the armpits.
Thank you so very much. You are the only person who makes it easier for me
Hi Andrea, thank you for your lovely comment. I hope your basic blocks turn out well :)!
Anicka
Thanks again, can’t wait to try it.