Sewing and Pattern Making Terms Explained: A Beginner’s Guide

From drafting patterns to sewing simple garments like a circle skirt or tackling more complex projects like an evening gown, you’ll encounter a wide range of terms related to sewing techniques, seam finishes, pattern drafting, and essential tools. For beginners, this terminology can feel overwhelming. That’s why I’ve put together this overview—covering both fundamental and some advanced terms and concepts used in the world of sewing and patterns.

To help you find what you’re looking for, all terms are organised into categories so you can easily navigate through them. Within each category, the terms follow a logical order. Simply skim through the categories or use the Ctrl + F (Cmd + F) function of your browser to search for a specific term.

• Fabric and textile terms
• Pattern drafting and marking tools
• Pattern manipulation techniques
• Design elements and garment features
• Fasteners and closures
• General sewing tools and supplies
• Sewing techniques
• Seams, seam finishing and sewing techniques
• Sewing machine, presser feet and accessories
• Pressing and ironing tools
• Embellishments and finishes

Fabric and textile terms

• Yarn – The continuous strand of fibres (natural, synthetic, or their blend) used to create fabric by weaving or knitting.
• Grain – The direction of yarns in a fabric, running either lengthwise (along the warp) or crosswise (along the weft). It influences the fabric’s drape, stretch, and stability, affecting pattern alignment and garment fit.
• Lengthwise grain – The set of yarns in a fabric that run in the same direction as the fabric’s length. These provide stability and have the least amount of stretch. They are held under tension on a loom while the crosswise threads are woven through them. Most patterns are aligned with the lengthwise grain to ensure proper fit and structure. Learn more about lengthwise grain.
• Crosswise grain – The threads running perpendicular to the lengthwise grain, typically with slightly more stretch than the lengthwise grain. More about crosswise grain.
• Bias – A diagonal direction of fabric at a 45-degree angle to the grain, allowing for maximum stretch and flexibility. It’s used for bias-cut garments, which conform to the body’s curves. More about fabric bias.
• Give/stretch – The stretch or flexibility a fabric has, particularly when pulled on the bias. Fabrics with a “give” are able to stretch. In woven fabrics without flexible fibres (e.g., cotton or linen), the bias provides the most give compared to the lengthwise or crosswise grainlines.
• Selvage (selvedge) line – The tightly woven edge of fabric that prevents fraying of the fabrics edges and runs parallel to the lengthwise grain. It aids in pattern alignment and fabric stability. See more about selvage line.
• Loom – A device used for weaving fabric by interlacing two sets of yarns at right angles.
• Calico – A plain-woven cotton fabric, affordable and easy to work with. It is usually not bleached, and commonly used for draping or creating muslins (prototypes of garments).
• Blend – A fabric made of two or more different fibres mixed together (e.g., cotton and polyester) to combine their properties, such as strength, softness, or stretch. More about difference between fabric and material.
• Right side (correct side) – The side of a fabric intended to be visible in a finished garment or item. It is identified by features like print, nap, beads, or other embellishments, or by small holes along the selvage that appear raised on this side.  Learn to identify the right side of fabric.
• Wrong side – The underside of the fabric that is typically not visible when the garment or item is completed. It often appears dull, plain, or without print, nap, or embellishments, and may show small holes along the selvage that appear being “punched inside”. Learn to identify the wrong side of the fabric.
• Nap of fabric – The raised or textured surface found on certain fabrics (like velvet or corduroy) that requires careful directional cutting to maintain a uniform appearance. When a pattern calls for directional cutting, it will be indicated by a grainline with a single arrowhead, which shows the direction of the nap.
• Woven – Fabric created by interlacing two sets of yarns (warp and weft) at right angles, resulting in a structured and stable fabric. It has give only on the bias unless the fabric contains elastic fibres.
• Plain weave – A basic weaving technique where the warp and weft threads are woven over and under each other alternately, creating a simple, strong, and balanced fabric structure.
• Knit – Fabric made by looping threads together, allowing for stretch and flexibility. Knits stretch in all directions: crosswise, lengthwise, and on the bias. Knits are commonly used to sew t-shirts, leggings, sweat pants and other stretchy and comfortable garments.
• Drape – The way fabric falls, folds, or flows when hung or worn. Fabrics with good drape (like silk or rayon) flow smoothly, while those with less drape (like denim or canvas) hold their shape more rigidly.
• Draping – The process of positioning and pinning fabric directly onto a dress form or mannequin to create a garment shape before transferring it to paper to draft a pattern.
• Muslin/toile – A test garment made from inexpensive fabric (often calico) to check fit and construction before sewing the final piece.
• Elastane – A synthetic fibre known for its stretch and elasticity, often blended with other fabrics like cotton or polyester to provide stretch and flexibility. Commonly used in activewear, swimwear, and form-fitting garments.
• Lurex – A brand name for a metallic yarn or fabric, often made with a polyester or nylon core wrapped in a thin layer of metal, giving it a shiny, reflective finish. Used for adding sparkle and shine to garments and accessories.
• Plaid – A fabric pattern consisting of crisscrossed horizontal and vertical stripes, usually in multiple colours, often associated with tartan designs.

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Pattern drafting and marking tools

• Tracing wheel – A tool with a spiked wheel that transfers pattern markings, like darts and seam lines, onto fabric. The tracing wheel is ideal for marking internal pattern details like buttonholes, darts or contour darts.
• Pattern notcher – A tool used to create small cuts into paper patterns where the notches are positioned, helping indicate matching points on seam allowances of pattern pieces. You will use these markings to correctly align and assemble individual pattern pieces.
• Double tracing wheel – Similar to a tracing wheel but with two parallel wheels, allowing for simultaneous marking of stitching and seam allowances. The one I like to use can be easily transformed into a single-wheel tracing wheel. See a double tracing wheel at work.
• Tailor’s tacks – Temporary, hand-sewn markings used to transfer pattern markings from the paper pattern to fabric. These tacks are made with contrasting thread and are later removed after sewing. Use tailor’s tacks on fabrics where liners or tracing papers could leave permanent marks.
• Pattern markings – Symbols, lines, or notches on a sewing pattern that provide instructions for cutting, stitching, and assembling a garment. These include markings for darts, pleats, grainlines, and seam allowances. Take a look at the overview of pattern markings.
• Ruler – A straight measuring tool, typically 12-24 inches long, used for drafting patterns and ensuring straight lines.
• Flexible ruler – A bendable, curved ruler used for measuring and marking curved or irregular shapes on fabric. Ideal for pattern drafting, alterations, or shaping seams. It’s especially useful for measuring or drawing armscyes and necklines, for example.
• French curve – A curved template used to draft smooth curves for armholes, necklines, and other contoured seams in pattern making. French curves come in various types: use shallow curves for drawing hip or waist lines, and more pronounced curves for armholes and necklines.
• Quilting ruler – A thick, transparent ruler with grid markings, used for cutting precise shapes and straight edges in quilting and pattern making. It’s particularly useful when drafting hem lines, straight waistbands, and other measurements that require precision.
• Chaco liner – A fabric marking tool that dispenses powder or chalk to create temporary marks on fabric. Available in different colours for use on light or dark fabrics. The one I like to use can be refilled, making it practical for ongoing use. See how to work with a chaco liner.
• Sewing gauge – A small, adjustable measuring tool used for marking hems, seam allowances, and other measurements on fabric. It typically has a slide that can be set to specific distances for consistent, accurate measurements.

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Pattern manipulation techniques

• Grading – The process of resizing a pattern to create a range of sizes.
• Pivoting darts – A method of relocating darts by pivoting them around a fixed point on a pattern while keeping the garment’s shape intact. Commonly used in design alterations and creative pattern-making. You can practice pivoting darts on a basic bodice pattern, pivoting around the bust apex. Download quarter-size basic bocks to practice pivoting darts.
• Slash-and-spread darts – A technique where the pattern is cut (slashed) and spread apart to move or alter darts, creating fullness in specific areas like gathers, pleats, or flounces. This technique can be used to add volume to a skirt, create extra room in a sleeve, or create flounces on the bottom of a dress.
• Seam shifting – A technique used to change the position of seams for fit or design purposes, such as shifting a side seam or moving a princess seam.
• Tapering – Gradually narrowing a pattern piece at a specific area, such as the waist or thigh, to create a more fitted silhouette. This term is typically used with drafting pants.
• Gathering – A method used to add fullness by creating soft, evenly spaced pleats, often by pulling a thread along the edge of the fabric. Gathering can be used structurally to shape garments: a sleeve cap or waistline, or decoratively to add texture and volume, like in puffed sleeves. Learn to gather fabric easily.
• Pleating – Creating folds in the fabric by folding it in a specific pattern, such as knife pleats, box pleats, or accordion pleats.
• Contour seams – Curved seams that follow the natural shape of the body, such as princess seams, to shape the garment more precisely to the form.
• Flaring – A technique where a straight or slightly fitted garment piece is altered to gradually increase in width, such as in skirts, pants, or sleeves.

Design elements and garment features

• Ease – The amount of extra space in a garment beyond the body’s actual measurements to allow for comfort and movement.
• Bodice – The upper part of a garment that covers the torso, typically from the shoulders to the waist. Found in dresses, tops, and jumpsuits. Learn to draft a basic bodice block based on your measurements.
• Waist – The narrowest part of the torso, typically measured around the natural waistline.
• Hip – The fullest part of the lower body, typically measured around the widest part of the hips and buttocks.
• Circumference – The measurement around a body part or a section of a garment.
• Girth – Looped body measurement that goes over and under the body, rather than just around it. In sewing and pattern making, it most commonly refers to torso girth—the distance from the top of one shoulder, down the front of the body, through the crotch, and up the back to the same shoulder point. It’s often used when drafting close-fitting garments like leotards, swimsuits, or bodysuits, where the full contour of the body needs to be captured. 
• Length – The measurement from one point to another, such as waist to hem or shoulder to waist.
• Square To – A drafting term meaning to draw a straight perpendicular line from an existing line.
• Dart – A tapered fold sewn into fabric to provide shaping, commonly used at the bust, waist, or hips. Learn more about darts.
• Contour dart – A dart that shapes the waist and bust by removing excess fabric, typically found on fitted bodices to create a smooth, curved silhouette.
• French dart – A straight, diagonal dart that starts at the side seam and angles toward the bust point, creating a smooth, contoured fit in the garment.
• Gathers – Small folds or pleats created by drawing fabric together, adding fullness to a garment. Learn to gather fabric.
• Flounces – A decorative strip of fabric sewn onto a garment to create a ruffled effect, often cut in a circular or spiral shape. Learn about flounces.
• Ruffles – Fabric that is gathered or pleated and then sewn onto a garment or accessory to create a decorative, frilly effect. Often used on sleeves, skirts, collars, and hems.
• Pleats – Structured folds in fabric that add fullness or texture.
  • Knife Pleats – Narrow, uniform pleats all facing in the same direction.
  • Box Pleats – Folds facing away from each other, creating a “box” shape.
  • Accordion pleats – Fabric folded in a way that resembles an accordion, creating evenly spaced, narrow pleats.
• Tucks – Small, stitched folds in fabric that create texture or shaping.
• Smocking – Decorative embroidery that gathers fabric into small, elasticized folds.
• Godet – A triangular fabric insert used to add flare to skirts or dresses.
• Armscye (armhole) – The armhole opening where the sleeve is attached to a garment.
• Neckline – The shape of a garment’s opening around the neck.
• Collar – A fabric band around the neckline, often folded or structured.
• Waistband – A strip of fabric at the waist that secures and shapes a garment. Learn to draft various types of waistbands.
• Pocket – A sewn-in fabric pouch for carrying small items.
• Kick pleat – A small pleat, usually at the back of a skirt or dress, that allows for ease of movement and adds a stylish detail to the garment.
• Skirt vent – A slit or opening, often at the back or side of a skirt, designed purely for mobility. It’s usually a straight cut and is not pleated like a kick pleat.
• Placket – A strip of fabric, often reinforced, that allows for an opening in a garment, such as at the front of a shirt or blouse, where buttons or other fasteners are inserted.

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Fasteners and closures

• Hook and Eye – A small fastening device consisting of a metal hook and a loop, used for secure garment closures.
• Exposed Zipper – A zipper intentionally left visible as a design element rather than concealed within a seam.
• Concealed Zipper – A zipper designed to be hidden within a seam, creating a smooth and invisible closure.
• Velcro – Brand name that refers to a type of fastener made up of two components: Hook side, a rough surface with tiny hooks. Loop side, a softer surface with small loops. When pressed together, the hooks catch in the loops, creating a secure but easily separable bond.
• Button – A small fastener, typically round, used to join two pieces of fabric by slipping through a buttonhole.
• Buttonhole – A reinforced slit in fabric designed to secure a button, typically finished with stitching to prevent fraying.

General sewing tools and supplies

• Pins – Small, sharp metal rods used to temporarily hold fabric layers together while sewing. Learn about different approaches to pin fabric.
• Basting Thread – A temporary, loosely woven thread used for hand-basting fabric pieces before final stitching.
• Sewing Clips – Plastic or metal clips that hold fabric layers together without puncturing delicate or thick materials.
• Pattern Weights – Small weights used to hold patterns in place on fabric while pinning patterns to fabric or while transferring patterns to fabric.
• Awl – A sharp tool used for making holes in fabric, leather, or paper, often used for marking or inserting fasteners. Learn how to use an awl to transfer darts from pattern to fabric.
• Button Spacer – A tool used to measure and evenly space buttons during sewing.
• Loop Turner – A tool used to turn narrow fabric tubes right-side-out, commonly for straps, belts, and button loops.

Sewing techniques

• Interfacing – A layer of fabric used to add structure and support to certain areas, like collars or button plackets.
• Interlining – A layer of fabric placed between the outer fabric and the lining to provide additional structure, warmth, or stability, often used in jackets, coats, and tailored garments.
• Facing – A fabric layer sewn inside a garment to finish raw edges, commonly used for necklines and armholes.
• Underlining – A separate fabric layer sewn to the main fabric to add structure, opacity, or stability.
• Lining – A layer of fabric inside a garment that provides a smooth finish and comfort.
• Boning – A thin, flexible material (usually made from plastic, steel, or nylon) inserted into the seams of garments to provide structure and support, commonly used in corsets, bridal wear, and bodices.
• Understitching – A technique where the seam allowances are sewn to the facing or lining to keep them from rolling to the outside, helping the garment maintain its shape and ensuring a clean finish.
• Staystitching – A line of stitching sewn just inside the seam allowance (before any major construction), typically on curved edges like necklines or armholes. It strengthens the fabric to prevent stretching and helps maintain its shape, especially when the seam allowance needs to be clipped for a smoother finish.
• Elastic – A stretchy material, often made of rubber or spandex, used in fabrics to provide flexibility, shape retention, and a snug fit. Commonly used in waistbands, cuffs, and activewear.

Seams, seam finishing and sewing techniques

• Seam allowance – The extra fabric between the stitching line and the fabric edge, allowing for seam construction and adjustments.
• Hem allowance – The extra fabric folded under at the edge of a garment to create a finished hem.
• Seam finish – A technique used to prevent fabric edges from fraying (e.g., pinking, serging, or binding). Learn about most common seam finishes.
• Backstitching – A stitching technique where the sewing machine needle stitches backwards over the starting point to secure the stitches, preventing seams from coming undone. Often used at the beginning and end of seams.
• French seam – A seam that encloses the raw edges within itself, creating a clean and professional finish, often used for delicate fabrics.
• Flat-felled seam – A strong, durable seam where the raw edges are enclosed and topstitched down, commonly found in jeans and workwear.
• Pinked seam – A simple seam finishing method where the edges are cut with pinking shears to reduce fraying. Learn about pinked seam more in detail.
• Overlocked seam – A seam finished with a serger (overlock machine) to trim and encase raw edges in thread for a clean, professional look. Take a look at the overlock seam.
• Hong-Kong finish – A seam finishing technique where raw edges are bound with bias tape, often used in high-end tailoring.
• Hand over-cast seam – A seam finishing technique where the raw fabric edges are stitched by hand using an overcast stitch to prevent fraying. Often used on delicate fabrics or when a sewing machine is not available. Learn to sew a hand overcast seam.
• Topstitching – Decorative or functional stitching done on the outside of a garment, usually along seams, edges, or hems, for reinforcement and design.
• Blind hem stitch – A nearly invisible stitch used to create hems, where small stitches catch only a few threads of the fabric on the right side, commonly used for dress pants, skirts, and formal wear.
• Stitch in the ditch – A sewing technique where the seam is sewn directly in the crease of a seam (the “ditch”) to secure layers of fabric together without visible stitching on the outside of the garment.
• Zig-zag stitch – A type of stitch where the sewing machine needle moves in a side-to-side motion, creating a zig-zag pattern. It is commonly used for finishing edges, sewing stretch fabrics, and adding decorative effects. Learn about zig-zag stitching.
• Three-step zig-zag stitch – A sewing stitch where the needle moves in a side-to-side motion three times before returning to the centre position, creating a more pronounced zig-zag effect. It is often used for finishing edges, reinforcing seams, or adding decorative details. Read more about three-step zig-zag stitch.
• Casing – A fabric tunnel or channel designed to enclose elastic, drawstrings, or boning, often used in waistbands, cuffs, and hems. Learn about various types of casings.
• Hemming tape – A double-sided adhesive tape used to create hems without sewing, often used for quick fixes or on fabrics that are difficult to stitch.
• Horsehair braid – A thin, crinoline-like trim made from nylon or polyester, used to add stiffness and structure to fabric, often inserted into seams or hems of garments like skirts, dresses, and gowns.

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Sewing machine, presser feet and accessories

• Bobbin – A small spool that holds the lower thread in a sewing machine, which is used to form stitches along with the upper thread.
• Zipper Foot – A presser foot designed to sew close to zipper teeth, allowing for precise zipper installation.
• Invisible Zipper Foot – A specialized foot that helps install invisible zippers by guiding the coil under the foot for a seamless look.
• Walking Foot – A foot with an additional set of feed dogs that helps feed multiple layers of fabric evenly, commonly used for quilting or sewing tricky fabrics like leather.
• Buttonhole Foot – A foot that helps create evenly sized buttonholes by guiding the fabric while stitching in a programmed pattern.
• Button Sewing Foot – A foot designed to securely attach buttons using a zigzag stitch while preventing fabric movement.
• Rolled Hem Foot (Narrow Hem Foot) – A presser foot that rolls fabric into a narrow hem while stitching, perfect for lightweight fabrics.
• Overlock Foot (Overedge Foot) – A foot used to mimic a serger stitch by finishing raw edges with an overcasting stitch.
• Quarter-Inch Foot (¼” Foot) – A foot used for precise ¼-inch seam allowances, commonly used in quilting and topstitching.
• Darning Foot (Free-Motion Foot) – A foot used for free-motion quilting, embroidery, and darning by allowing movement in all directions.
• Gathering Foot – A foot designed to create soft gathers in fabric by slightly bunching it while sewing.
• Pintuck Foot – A foot used to create small, raised tucks in fabric by guiding it over cording or tight stitches.
• Teflon Foot (Non-Stick Foot) – A non-stick foot designed for sewing tricky fabrics like leather, vinyl, and plastic, preventing them from sticking to the presser foot.
• Jeans Foot (Denim Foot) – A heavy-duty foot designed to handle thick seams and multiple layers of denim or canvas.
• Edgestitch Foot (Stitch-in-the-Ditch Foot) – A foot used for precise topstitching or stitching in the seam’s groove (ditch) for an invisible finish.
• Ruffler Foot – A specialized foot that creates evenly spaced pleats or ruffles in fabric as it stitches.
• Twin Needle Foot – A foot used for double-needle sewing, creating parallel rows of stitching for decorative or stretch applications.
• Adjustable Zipper/Piping Foot – A versatile foot that allows for close stitching to piping, zippers, and other trims.
• Blind-Stitch Foot – A foot that helps create nearly invisible hems by guiding the fabric and stitching only small portions of the hem.
• Jean-a-Ma-Jig (Hump Jumper) – A tool used to help the presser foot sew over thick seams (like denim) by keeping the foot level.
• Sewing Machine Guide – A guide that attaches to a sewing machine to help keep stitches straight and consistent, especially for quilting or topstitching.

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Pressing and ironing tools

• Iron – A tool that uses heat and steam to press fabric, remove wrinkles, and set seams during sewing.
• Pressing board – A padded surface used to press fabric and seams flat while sewing, often with measurements for accuracy.
• Pressing cloth – A protective cloth placed between fabric and the iron to prevent scorching, especially on delicate fabrics.
• Stitch press and flapper – A tool used for pressing seams and folds with precision, especially in tailored garments.
• Clapper – A solid wooden tool used to press seams, pleats, and creases by absorbing steam and heat, helping to set the fabric for a crisp, professional finish.
• Tailor’s ham – A rounded, firm cushion used for pressing curved seams, darts, and shaping garments.
• Seam roll – A long, narrow pressing tool used to press seams, cuffs, and sleeves without creating unwanted creases on the fabric. It’s particularly useful for pressing small, hard-to-reach areas like sleeve seams.

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Cutting and measuring tools

• Rotary cutter – A cutting tool with a circular blade used for precise fabric cutting, often paired with a cutting mat. Find out more about rotary cutters.
• Cutting mat – A self-healing, grid-lined surface used for cutting fabric with rotary cutters or scissors, protecting the work surface and ensuring precise cuts.
• Thread scissors – Small, lightweight scissors designed for snipping thread ends with precision.
• Pinking shears – Scissors with a zigzag edge that prevents fabric from fraying and adds decorative edging. Learn more about pinking shears.
• Duckbill scissors – Scissors with one wide blade designed to trim close to fabric without cutting the underlying layer, often used for appliqué and trimming seams.
• Embroidery scissors – Small, sharp scissors used for fine cutting tasks such as trimming threads or intricate embroidery work.
• Buttonhole cutter – A small, sharp tool (often a chisel or knife) used to precisely cut open buttonholes after they have been stitched.
• Seam ripper – A small tool with a pointed, sharp blade used to cut and remove stitches from a sewn seam, making it easier to correct mistakes or alter a garment.
• Tape measure – A flexible measuring tool used for taking body measurements, measuring fabric, and ensuring precise cutting or sewing. It typically has both metric and imperial markings.

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Embellishments and finishes

• Anti-crease finish – A fabric treatment that reduces wrinkling, keeping garments smooth and easy to maintain.
• Coated fabric – Fabric that has been treated with a protective layer, such as a plastic or rubber coating, to make it water-resistant, durable, or give it a specific texture. Commonly used for outerwear, tablecloths, and bags.
• Appliqué – A decorative technique where fabric pieces are sewn onto a larger fabric base to create patterns or designs.
• Batik – A fabric dyeing technique that uses wax to create patterns by resisting dye in certain areas.
• Beaded Fabric – Fabric embellished with beads, either sewn or glued, to create decorative patterns or textures.
• Beads – Small decorative objects, often made of glass, plastic, or metal, used for embellishing fabric, or accessories.
• Bias Tape (Bias Binding Tape) – A strip of fabric cut on the bias (diagonal to the grain) and used to finish edges, create bindings, or make decorative trims. It has stretch, making it ideal for curves.
• Bleach – A chemical solution used to lighten or remove colour from fabric, often used in fabric dyeing or cleaning.
• Dyeing – The process of adding color to fabric or yarn using a dye or pigment. Can be done using various techniques such as immersion, tie-dye, or batik.
• Bleeding – The unwanted transfer of dye from one fabric to another, typically during washing or exposure to water.
• Eyelet – A small, reinforced hole in fabric, typically surrounded by a metal ring, used for threading laces or cords through. Often found in garments like shoes, corsets, and decorative elements.
• Quilting – A sewing technique where two or more layers of fabric are stitched together, with padding in between. The stitching often forms decorative patterns and is used for creating textured effects, commonly found in quilts, jackets, and home décor items.

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